This is mostly useless, except to justify buying a bigger TV. However, I did learn:

  • For most popular high end models, the 65 inch models are cheapest / sq inch (e.g Sony A95L, Samsung S90D, LG G4). For most others, it’s the 75 inch models.
  • TCL S551F 55" scores the lowest ($0.17/sq inch)
  • The lowest scoring OLED is the Samsung S85D ($0.55/sq inch)
  • For 100 inches, Hisense QD7 is the cheapest ($0.37/sq inch). For 85 inches, it’s the TCL S551F ($0.22/sq inch)

Graphs by brand

Prices taken from Amazon, rest of the data from https://comparetvprices.com. Models are from 2022-now.

  • @[email protected]
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    11 minutes ago

    Here, it’s not demand vs. suply. It’s demand only, that drives prices.

    Wait, isn’t that a sign for collusion?

  • @[email protected]
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    55 hours ago

    There’s not much point in optimizing completely for price per inch, but when I bought my TV in 2013 I plotted this, and discovered a pretty sharp hockey stick in the graph at 70" and above. So I got a 65" TV. If my graph had looked pretty straight like yours I’d probably just get the biggest that is practical for the space.

    • @[email protected]
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      2 hours ago

      My SO wants a bigger screen, and I was thinking of a 65", but maybe I’ll consider a 75" instead since it seems like a sweet spot for value.

      I’ve also debated getting a projector. It’s in a basement, so I can get a blackout curtain for daytime use.

    • @[email protected]
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      5 hours ago

      yeah you’d have to get a rear projection DLP to get a bargain at that screen size back then. around 2010 i picked up a 73" DLP for less than a grand at costco, but i used some lucky discounts, or it would’ve been 1100 or so on sale.

      most people don’t like those bulky TVs though, even back then. or even have room for them.

    • @[email protected]
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      15 hours ago

      I followed a roughly similar process but the flow was more like, “Here’s a 65-inch TV on sale, let’s bump up our 48.”

  • @Hawk
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    16 hours ago

    Informative post, thanks. I think a boxplot would have worked better here.

      • @Hawk
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        14 hours ago

        I don’t, I’m not sure if I’m in the minority. I just plug in my laptop or cast my phone (jellyfin or any other misc streaming service).

      • @[email protected]
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        311 hours ago

        Most people do.

        Mine’s just old enough to not have ads but new enough to have apps for plex and other services I use. Next one is going to be disconnected and have some flashable Android box connected to it. Or even just Apple TV as that’s still better than most native UIs.

      • @[email protected]
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        1015 hours ago

        LG and Samsung have been caught uploading screenshots of your HDMI inputs too, so it’s not like it’s any better

  • Ghostalmedia
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    1619 hours ago

    I want a 3 axis chart of price, size, and number of ads in the UI.

    • @[email protected]
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      318 hours ago

      I doubt this will hold up now that they’re owned by Walmart, but I’ve gotten exactly zero ads on Vizio panels since I first bought one in 2017. I have two at the moment and they’re both effectively dumb displays with no network access.

  • Jesus
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    1120 hours ago

    Now filter by display technology.

  • @[email protected]
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    618 hours ago

    At least in the case of the Hisense TV I got for my grandparents, a “glitch” with accessibility controls (makes directional inputs unresponsive or multi-press at times) just so happens to make remapping the sponsored remote buttons impossible, as well as breaking the most common method of changing the system launcher, so screen size alone isn’t everything.

    Although Hisense still tries to reinstall sponsored apps after I delete them, using Launcher Manager to set a custom launcher that allows for the hiding of unwanted applications and channels made it much more usable for my grandparents.

    Unfortunately I wasn’t able to redirect YouTube voice input commands to SmartTube Next, so if I ever replace it, that’ll be a factor in my decision too.